Berkeley Bowl West

The Best Dishes Eater SF Editors Ate This Week: Spring 2023 - Eater SF

"I’ve written before about how Berkeley Bowl sells some of the best pastries in town, but when a fellow East Bay-dwelling food editor informs you that your shared favorite store now sells pastries from Craftsman and Wolves, it’s best to just make up a reason to go. And so I found myself scanning the glass pastry case at Berkeley Bowl West, and I spied this beautiful number. It’s gorgeous, of course, as is everything that comes out of the Craftsman and Wolves kitchen, with a violet-and-gold leaf encased under a clear glace top, decorating the face of a smooth and rounded “garden stone.” The lychee flavor of the mousse was lovely and delicate, not at all cloyingly sweet or over-the-top, which lychee can tend to be in the wrong hands. The softness of the mousse plays against the almond dentelle base with each bite, creating a nice juxtaposition of textures and tastes. The dentelle itself isn’t overly sweet either, and thankfully isn’t tooth-shatteringly crisp; instead, it broke nicely apart with each scoop but provided a good crunch to each bite. It’s a perfect post-grocery store reward for braving the crowds at Berkeley Bowl. Craftsman and Wolves at Berkeley Bowl West, 920 Heinz Avenue, Berkeley" - Lauren Saria