2024 Was The Year Houston Restaurants Played With Fire | Eater Houston

"Opened by Levi Goode as a solo project that foregrounds a 12‑foot custom hearth and wood oven where pan de campo is baked and whole ducks are hung for slow roasting; at least one component of every dish — "from the bread to the berries in its desserts" — is intentionally kissed by fire. Goode emphasizes fire's flavor and heritage: "Fire imparts a rich flavor that you can’t get with other kitchen equipment," he says, adding that using different woods, equipment, and techniques contributes nuance — "It’s such a deeply rooted way to cook that goes back thousands of years," and "It’s creative and very versatile." He also notes the continuity of his family operation: "It’s the way we’ve been cooking since 1977, and it’s coming into its own in 2024 and beyond." The kitchen uses a combination of mesquite and Post Oak to shape those flavors." - Brittany Britto Garley