Pizzeria Sei, One of LA’s Best, Is Moving to a New Neighborhood in 2025 - Eater LA
"Over the past two-and-a-half years, Pizzeria Sei has created a cult following for its mochi-like wood-fired crust and pizza omakase, gaining worldwide recognition along the way. Joo, previously a cook at Providence, Ronan, and Pizzana, opened Sei with his wife Jennifer So in early 2022 with lofty ambitions. In the years since, Pizzeria Sei has introduced innovative topping combinations to the Neapolitan genre, such as a mala lamb sausage pizza topped with cilantro flowers. Joo also launched a monthly pizza omakase where diners could take a parade through a slew of various pizzas by the slice, including a few off-menu options. Pizzeria Sei also landed at number 8 on the 50 Top Pizzas in the United States and number 33 on the 50 Top Pizzas in the world. After operating in a very small footprint, Joo tells Eater that the Sei’s current model has since become unsustainable, which means they will likely convert it into a takeout and delivery-only pizzeria if they even opt retain it after the lease expires. “The old space was so tiny, and working there was so hard. Not everyone is happy because our reservation system doesn’t work like clockwork,” says Joo. “99 percent of the bad reviews we get are because of the space, because we have to ask guests to wait. It’s just not worth it to run full service there anymore,” he continues. The chef said the lack of a stove or kitchen prep area has limited the restaurant’s ability to expand the menu. In lieu of Pico-Robertson, a neighborhood that Joo acknowledges has greatly supported their business, Pizzeria Sei will shuffle over to a new commercial and residential multi-use building in Palms at the corner of Overland Avenue and Tabor Street. The new location will feature 30 to 34 seats inside, plus a patio for another 15 to 20 diners. Joo says the landlord will be footing most of the construction, a strong reason why they chose to move. He hopes the new location will offer a bit more interior decor than the current pizzeria has, which some customers likened to an art gallery due to its spartan look. Though it will serve wood-fired pizzas as it does now, expect the new Sei to offer a double-baked square pizza with a satisfying crispy texture that contrasts with the more pillowy, blistered Neapolitan he’s known for. “It’ll be crispy-airy for something between a Detroit-style pizza and youtiao (Chinese doughnut),” says Joo. “Pizza makers change their preferences over time. I want to change mine into something more light and airy.” The chef hopes that since he’ll have the backing and finances of the current restaurant to propel Sei to a new location, he hopes to open with enough staff training, recipe testing, and an actual ambience. “Last time, we changed and improved as we were open. This time, I want to train everybody and make sense of the menu,” says Joo. “My biggest regret was not practicing enough before we opened.” Joo and the rest of the team will continue operating Pizzeria Sei at Pico-Robertson until the Palms location is completed." - Matthew Kang
