


69

"Breakfast at chef Francis Ang’s Fisherman’s Wharf restaurant is pretty damn good. I had put off visiting for brunch for the same getting-busy reasons as anyone and I’m kicking myself for it now. For $22 I think the chicken tocino silog enters the realm of outstanding breakfast orders in the city: I’m a sucker for creamified rice, so imagine me working through the two sunny side up eggs superimposed atop the garlic rice, weeping into the carby base below, while the pineapple-cured chicken’s softness balanced by crackly chicharron is just the right amount of meatiness so early in the day. Rounding things out are the little pile of pickled veg and ramekin of hot sauce, saving me the extraordinary labor of requesting any spicy accoutrements. The pastries on their own are worth a visit — the bibinkga rice cake, complete with soft caramelized brie and sharp salted egg, is the soft muffin-tamale-combo that only springs to life in a portside pastry-obsessed town like San Francisco — and I half stumbled out, having survived my anaconda-like gorging, to put brunch here on my standby list." - Paolo Bicchieri