"A week before opening, chefs worked in a glass kitchen one story below street level, pinching and pleating xiaolongbao with exacting standards: each dumpling must weigh between 20.8 and 21.2 grams and have 18 folds, employing a technique that can take thousands of tries to master. Starting in July, the chefs would make the dumplings over 10,000 times a day — more than at any other location of the chain worldwide." - Melissa McCart