Review: Santa Monica Stalwart Rustic Canyon Still Captivates After 20 Years | Eater LA

"Rooted in Santa Monica, this quintessential neighborhood restaurant has, since opening in 2006, remained dedicated to showcasing California’s unrivaled produce and micro-seasons while still feeling fresh and relevant nearly two decades in. The menu evolves with each chef — from Evan Funke’s late-aughts burger nights to Andy Doubrava’s prized duck ham and now Elijah Deleon’s Mexican-inflected plates — yet the core identity stays the same, with dynamic flavors that rival what young guns are cranking out across town. A meal can be as simple and satisfying as a plate of juicy satsuma mandarins drizzled with olive oil and dusted with fennel pollen, or freshly baked bread that might arrive as a crusty Mexican bolillo or fluffy Parker House rolls, always served with cultured butter and wildflower honey. To understand chef Deleon’s point of view, ordering his signature Fuyu persimmons with marigolds, honeynut squash, and mole seco is essential; the paper-thin slices of fruit and squash, showered in a blend of nuts, seeds, and dried chiles, go down easily. For a shareable and satisfying main, the bone-in Peads & Barnetts pork chop stands out, with accoutrements that change frequently (like red Kyoto carrots, maple labneh, and salsa macha) but with a reliably caramelized char and juicy cook. The seasonal ethos carries over to the bar, where Angel Martinez and Justin Dicken’s cocktail program highlights what’s ripe at the farmers market with wintertime options like a clarified punch of mezcal, mandarin, chiles, and Thai tea, and a Jamaican and Mexican rum-based drink spiked with passion fruit. The restaurant also participates in the Blackbird loyalty app, whose pay-without-the-bill feature is especially appreciated by parents dining with wilting little ones or anyone on a tight post-dinner schedule." - Cathy Chaplin