"A high-pressure New York City restaurant where late nights, drugs and after-hours debauchery bleed into service; the staff operates as a tight, protective unit even as secrets and romances complicate things. The episode centers on Tess’s bid to become a backwaiter: she leaves a nearly-dead coworker to take a lengthy written exam administered by Will, struggles to finish it, and fumbles during service — grabbing the wrong bottle (a 1996 vintage instead of a 2006) and tumbling down the stairs while carrying plates. In the wine cellar she overhears a tense conversation revealing that Simone had an affair with a regular known as Fred, and later sees bartender Jake threaten that same customer, prompting manager Howard to threaten disciplinary action; Simone gives Tess lavender and a cryptic “be careful” warning, and though Simone doubts Tess’s readiness, Howard ultimately hires her on instinct. Through the mishaps and interpersonal drama — from romantic entanglements to fights over discretion — the place comes across as brutal but magnetic, defined by its rituals (the backwaiter exam, wine knowledge) and by employees who fiercely want to belong." - Greg Morabito