"When Cafe Lago brought in longtime Cafe Juanita chef de cuisine Lauren Thompson to head up the kitchen in early 2024, the potentially splashy hire was made with little fanfare. Since her arrival, Thompson’s approach with the menu has been similarly low-key, with gentle but effective tweaks to the Tuscan and Calabrian-inspired fare that’s been drawing diners to Montlake since 1990. She’s improved the sourcing, featuring more local and seasonal produce, along with sustainable producers such as Samish Bay Cheese. Meatballs now include the traditional veal component — which actually restores them to the way they were made in the restaurant’s earlier years. No, Cafe Lago isn’t going the fine-dining tasting menu route à la Cafe Juanita; it’s still a charming neighborhood spot you can bring the kids. It’s more that those satisfying favorites — like linguine con pecorino and lamb osso bucco — are now dialed in with more emphasis on ingredients and technique." - Mark DeJoy, Harry Cheadle
