"David Liu’s face lights up when he talks about the differences between masago smelt roe and ikura, the marigold-hued salmon eggs that are considered a delicacy. He pours this passion for pristine fish and artful, modern presentations into Ebiko, the takeout-only sushi spot he opened in September on Piedmont Avenue, in the former Gaylord’s Coffee space. After just a few weeks, Ebiko has already gained a following for its super-fresh, ever-changing selection of nigiri sushi, rolls, and bowls — all offered at modest prices. The cold case features little cups of uni, or sea urchin, with Japanese cucumber, black masago, and orange salmon roe atop sushi rice; eel nigiri and pale pink seared salmon aburi nigiri topped with a sprinkle of black roe. The artfully composed kaisen don rice box topped with crab meat, sashimi slices, and ikura is always graced with an edible viola blossom. The omakase nigiri is a seven-piece selection that varies through the week according to what’s fresh. Rolls include eel, spicy tuna, vegetarian futomaki, and salmon avocado, all tightly wrapped. Each day brings a new special like a spicy salmon roll, a bowl with chutoro or deluxe kaisen don. Ebiko also stocks a range of snacks like wasabi peas, Pocky, savory and sweet Pretz, Mhapi Sriracha-flavored peas, Calbee shrimp chips, and white truffle potato chips. Liu offers an eclectic selection of Japanese drinks including trendy Hojicha iced tea, iced coffee, soft drinks from Kimino and Ramune, plus Izumu MTN WTR, alkaline water from Mt. Fuji." - Maria C. Hunt