"The second you walk through the door at Gates, you’ll be greeted with a “Hi, may I help you?” more sung than spoken. If you need a minute to decide, just ask — or order a beef Nooner: ribbons of thin-sliced brisket and a small mound of chopped burnt ends piled on a pliant bun. Add a generous squeeze of the beloved house sauce, which is subtly sweet but balanced with vinegar, smoke, and a blush of heat. Gates has been a local institution since 1946; while the restaurant has six locations now, the Brooklyn Avenue location is a favorite for its old-school cool and boisterous bar." - Liz Cook