"The mother of all Puebla bodega taquerias is Hell’s Kitchen’s Tulcingo del Valle, name-checking a town in the southern part of the state and offering a full menu ranging from goat barbacoa to pork ribs in salsa verde. It’s also one of the best places in town to score a chile relleno, stuffed with cheese and smothered in a sprightly tomato sauce. Keep your eye on chalkboard specials. It’s been owned and operated by Irma Verdejo and family since 2001." - Robert Sietsema