
9
"At the West Village branch I had no trouble getting in at lunch and chose the sunny room while the pizzaiolo worked with the oven in full view—pizza as theater. The margherita ($22) was at least two to three inches larger in diameter than Una’s, had been cut into slices (as is never done in Naples), and looked less inflated and more damp with a narrower circumferential hump. The crust was dense, wet and thin; the cheese more profuse and slightly rubbery; the tomato sauce a shade darker but seemingly unseasoned, and I managed only half of this pie compared with two‑thirds of Mangieri’s. It’s a perfectly desirable, sumptuously outfitted pizza, but in my view it lost the contest to Una’s lighter, springier margherita with its premium toppings." - Robert Sietsema