Where to Eat in Madison, Wisconsin

"Paul Schwoerer has been operating a one-item dumpling shop, with occasional interruptions, since 2003. There’s nothing else but dumplings at Paul’s Pel’meni — the Russian kind, filled simply, with either potato or beef. It’s the novel way they’re dressed that makes them essential Madison fare: cilantro, curry powder, butter, and a hot sauce/vinegar blend, with a side of sour cream. Sure, you can customize, but come on, live a little. Get the works. It’s supremely lo-fi but stunningly satisfying, and one of a handful of restaurants in post-pandemic Madison still open truly late." - Kyle Nabilcy