

5
"A recently refurbished, very lavish D&D Group dining room that seems designed to win back a lost Michelin star; the cooking is generally excellent and richly executed — highlights include a silky chicken liver parfait starter, a supremely light wild-garlic soup, mains such as black-leg chicken with mushrooms and Vin Jaune or a tournedos Rossini, a dramatic cheese trolley overseen by an in-house ‘frommelier,’ and elaborate, springlike desserts. The redesign and presentation lean heavily into opulent titivation, and service can verge on obsequiousness; there are frequent supplements on set menus and a feeling the overhaul targets a wealthy, showy clientele. Muscular technical skill is clear, but some critics find the whole package overly fussy and not uniquely necessary in London’s fine-dining scene." - George Reynolds