Evil Cooks Review: Black Tortillas, Novelty Skeletons, and Wild Fusion at the Most Exciting Taqueria in Los Angeles | Eater LA

"Devils on the door, gargoyles on the roof, a cloaked skeleton on the patio, and black octopus spinning on a grisly trompo set the tone for chefs Alex and Elvia García’s metal-forward taqueria, where an earnest, deeply personal vision meets food that absolutely shreds. From a diminutive pop-up turned El Sereno restaurant, the Garcías kick out face-melting riffs on taqueria standards: start with the McSatan, a definitively nonstandard cheeseburger taco where every element—from the patty to the thick, fragrant tortilla—sings and neatly encapsulates the house philosophy. Don’t miss the Corazón Abierto specials, which reinterpret global flavors, like bean and cheese dumplings or a tom yum aguachile that zaps raw shrimp with lemongrass and tons of chiles for a fun, riotously spicy jolt. Save room for dessert tacos: one piles citrus flan with coconut flakes, the other layers a churro, cheesecake, and jicama-strawberry marmalade on a crepe-like tortilla. Take note that the Hell Menu is for omnivores while the Heaven Menu caters to vegetarians, and many dishes can be made vegan on request. Provided they can rock with the metal soundtrack, it’s even a good spot for kids thanks to the playful patio decor, and dishes like the McSatan or the straightforward mulita can be easily tweaked for younger palates." - Ben Mesirow