Tainos, a Cloud Kitchen Restaurant Serves the Best Mofongos in Los Angeles | Eater LA

"Tucked into a quiet Canoga Park cloud kitchen, I discovered Tainos, one of LA’s newest Puerto Rican restaurants opened in December 2022 by Odessa Rodriguez, who partnered with her husband Nick Varvatsoulis and brought in her uncle, chef Erwin Torres. Torres—with 35 years of experience in San Juan hotels—has built an appealing menu centered on garlicky, mojo-soaked mofongos made in a traditional pilón de madera with chicharrónes and garlic; the mofongo is delicious on its own (soft and luxurious, like Thanksgiving stuffing) and is best with tangy shrimp criollo or roast pork leg. Starters include frituras, a trio of flaky empanadillas (including a popular pizza-style with marinara and mozzarella), and indispensable tostones. Mains feature arroz con gandules with a punch of adobo paired with tender pernil, arroz blanco con habichuelas flavored by sazón and sofrito, and churrasco flank steak with chimichurri and stewed beans. Daily specials let Torres showcase home-style stews such as asopao de pollo (also available with shrimp, buttery and aromatic like gumbo) and a lovingly spiced carne guisada. They’re adding dishes each week, have grown a steady local following, serve limited hours with pickup and delivery, and are working out the kinks as they build their brand." - Bill Esparza