"For 15 years, I’ve been going to a narrow storefront near the corner of Allen and Grand for my Chinese charcuterie and wonton soup. At first it was called New Manpole, then became Bing Hing Wong, and is now called Delight Wong, with the staff remaining basically the same throughout the duration. Now it’s the refuge of old men, who drink shots of brandy between communally shared dishes that arrive by dumbwaiter from an unseen kitchen. Once, there were dozens of these so-called tea houses or duck shops in Chinatown; now only a handful of these quintessential Cantonese institutions remain." - Robert Sietsema
