
9
"At Lupo Marino on the Wharf, the sea-blue, beachy design and a transportive photo of Positano set a pleasant mood, but finesse evades much of the food: a pale, thin-crusted pizza would be tasteless if not for otherwise pleasant toppings of porchetta, chopped red peppers and broccolini, and a panini tasted like it was stuffed with canned tuna and appeared to be missing its advertised aioli. The Tuscan kale with an anchovy-lemon dressing and a blizzard of grated cheese is a hearty and delicious salad, though its large leaves left diners looking like grazing cattle. I struck gold on the fried-food front with arancini filled with smoked scamorza and beef ragu, and I’m optimistic about the pasta menu after paccheri with crab, shrimp and tubes of squid; service was uneven during my visit, with appetizers and entrees appearing all at once." - Tierney Plumb