"Taken over not too long ago by a Chinese-Venezuelan owner, this pizzeria just off Queens Boulevard in Forest Hills was already a historic and fully functioning institution. Now it also serves overstuffed arepa sandwiches, fried and baked empanadas, cheese-stuffed cachapas, and other Venezuelan fare as a sideline. The pizzas, though, remain uncommonly solid, including a plain slice with extra cheese, a narrow bone (the bare outside edge of the slice), and a bland tomato sauce that makes this example typical of great neighborhood slices. Other more contemporary slices include the baked ziti, the Hawaiian, and the bacon chicken ranch, the last slice gobbed with salad dressing." - Robert Sietsema
Robert Sietsema
