

15

"In a tiny, unfussy lime-green space lively with chatter and indie-sleaze throwbacks, the pair behind a beloved pop-up is turning out some of the city’s most exciting — and hardest to find — Khmer dishes. While soups and stews are staples of Khmer cuisine, the menu leans summery to start: don’t skip the crispy head-on shrimp, more about the spicy, herbaceous mango dressing than the crunch; the whole fried fish ($44), flanked by a rainbow of accompaniments, shows off a coating perfumed with ground lime leaves that gives each bite a citric zap; and for a splurge, the saucy, stir-fried lobster ($95) delivers. More of a turf fan? The bone-in pork chop, bejeweled with almost-bursting sungold tomatoes, is a must-order, though it contains fish sauce, and the restaurant is currently unable to accommodate vegan diets or seafood allergies. Some of the best dishes here — the lobster, whole fish, and the wings when they pop up — practically demand eating with your hands; consider it a pretext to check out the bathroom mural painted by owners Chakriya Un and Alexander Chaparro when you wash up after. If you’re lucky, there may be sweets from Mina Park of the elusive dessert studio 99 — don’t skip her cakes. Despite the immediate buzz, the restaurant is open just three days a week for now, with tables available by reservation only (Crown Heights locals might try their luck with a walk-in)." - Bettina Makalintal