

9

"Expect to wait for a table as customers spill onto the street, but the dialed-in cocktails, botanas (Mexican bar snacks), and rotating specials make it worth the hype at this new bar. Start with the aguachile verde campechano ($18), a bright and punchy mix of squid, octopus, and shrimp with a kick of heat. The taco changes by the day; recently, albondigas al chipotle—smoky, saucy, tender meatballs—were a highlight ($8 to $20; mains run $22 to $32). A few dishes nod to Mexico City icons: the cochinita pibil tacos, starring citrusy shredded pork, take inspiration from famed taqueria El Turix, while the enchiladas are modeled after those from the CDMX cantina El Sella. Mexican spirits get the spotlight: for a crushable drink, try the spice-infused highballs—sumac in the draft Paloma adds another layer of tartness, while the tropical-leaning Batanga infuses Jerk spices into its reposado tequila base—and ingredients like sotol, Mexican rum, and tepache that can be hard to find at other New York bars (cocktails are $16). The vibe is playful, with literal bar games and cheeky touches like that cactus-stemmed glass; outdoor seating is pleasant and lively, but snagging a booth indoors is superior for the Art Deco design and the din of a new spot already hitting its stride." - Mary Anne Porto