"Fixed seating keeps things neat and tidy. It creates more space, makes floors easier to clean, and keeps the dining room in configuration. If Trevi Ristorante’s angular burgundy booths were installed when the place opened, then they’ve been exemplifying these benefits for 60 years. Those magical seats are an excellent place to enjoy hearty servings of Italian food. There’s a whole host of old-school dishes on offer here, from the breaded veal to the grilled lamb liver, but the obvious choice is the bolognese, which is meaty, peppery, and as deeply savoury as a pint of soy sauce." - Isaac Rangaswami
