Bar Buena, Houston’s New Cocktail Bar in River Oaks, Is Serious About Agave | Eater Houston

"Tucked behind Goode Co. Kitchen & Cantina on West Gray in River Oaks, this moody, intimate bar is a deep dive into agave, pouring more than 120 Mexican spirits—over 80 tequilas from 25 NOMs—alongside mezcals, raicilla, bacanora, and sotol, plus whiskey and rum. “We don’t carry Patrón. We curate for quality,” Levi Goode says, promising guidance for newcomers and serious options for aficionados. Highlights include Westin Galleymore’s Oaxacan Old Fashioned, a mezcal‑spiked riff layered with Bittermens Xocolatl mole and Angostura bitters and an in‑house cacao–chile tincture; the Ardilla, anchored by funky Gran Maizal corn whiskey and clarified overnight with whole and sweetened condensed milk for a clear, silky sip that smooths the edges; and the lively Chakalaka built on Uruapan Charanda with lemon, tepache, cantaloupe, and a pinch of salt to keep it bright. Small, flavor‑packed bites echo travels through Mexico: a pato tinga memela on a sturdy corn masa disk with refried beans, pickled onions, cilantro, lime, and braised duck; a milanesa‑thin ribeye taco tucked into in‑house heirloom‑corn tortillas from La Ranchera nixtamal; three‑day carnitas flautas marinated, braised in their own fat with Mexican Coca‑Cola, oregano, oranges, and milk, then fried crisp; and a balanced aguachile verde of poached Gulf shrimp in Persian cucumber–lime–cilantro with avocado over fresh tostadas so the shrimp still taste like shrimp, not just lime. Also on offer: a Tequila y Tonic (blanco, agua de jamaica, lime, cucumber, aloe, tonic) and Gulf crab tostadas with smashed avocado and chile de árbol aioli, all served in a dimly lit room with a rustic Mexican mix of leather, brass, and a tin ceiling." - H. Drew Blackburn