"Every market in Oaxaca has what’s known as a pasillo de humo, or smoke aisle — a smoke-filled alley where meat is sold and grilled by the kilo. The main pasillo de humo is located inside the 20 de Noviembre Market right next to the Zocalo, but the air here can be as thick with tourists as it is with the smell of cooked meat. Locals tend to prefer the one inside the sprawling Abastos Market. At either, the move is the same: purchase some meat from one of the stalls and they will provide a grill for you to cook your meat the way you like it. Wander the market and pick up a few garnishes and sides — avocados, green onions, a variety of salsas, fresh tortillas — and make it a meal. Here’s a tip: Purchase some drinks from one of the nearby nieve (ice cream) stalls and they’ll let you use their tables and chairs. [$]" - Omar Alonso
