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"A corner perch in the historic Ferry Building with water views, this elegant room bathed in creams and light woods showcases chef Alex Hong’s California cuisine over a wood-burning hearth. The menu hits include a Dungeness crab brioche loaded with crab; if you’re choosing one bread, go for the scallion fry bread—a fluffy flatbread with buffalo milk ricotta, figs grilled on the hearth, and a generous pour of salsa macha. Don’t miss the five ricotta dumplings in an irresistible sauce with corn and chanterelles that should thoroughly coat each bite, or the barbecue steamboat oysters, grilled on the hearth and arriving in vadouvan-spiced compound butter with crispy rice for crunch. Arquet’s chicken is worth writing home about: order a half or whole and it comes two ways—the breast and wing grilled on the hearth, while the thigh, drumstick, and leg (claw included) are fried and craggy, great for the hot honey that adds light heat and dimension. The scene mixes locals, downtown workers, and a few Ferry Building tourists; casual dress works (sweats and athleisure would be a stretch). It was quite busy on a Friday night, so book ahead, though the spacious lounge and bar can be a good bet—slip in at opening to snag food with your drinks before the rush." - Dianne de Guzman