"Kie-Gol-Lanee (“Old Stone” in the Zapotec dialect) is the phonetic spelling of Santa María Quiegolani, a small Oaxacan village in this state’s southern sierra. This is where siblings and co-owners María and Reynel Mendoza — and María’s husband, Léonides Ramos — grew up and learned to cook. Sandra Sotz, Reynel’s wife, completes the family team. The menu includes well-known regional staples like Oaxacan-style red or green tamales cooked in banana leaves, red mole, and traditional tlayudas, as well as more exotic dishes featuring quail, rabbit, wild boar, and seasonal grasshoppers. The environment is relaxed, and the Oaxacan servers are well-informed. Save room for dessert — the café de olla and tres leches cake are delightful. And for something truly unique, give the nicuatole a try. Similar to Jell-O, but silkier and made with corn and seasonal fruits, this sweet is not commonly found outside of Oaxaca. Online ordering is available." - Brenda Storch