

24
"On a dark Lombard Street corner, this high-class, stealth wealth Indian restaurant opened in spring 2024, with brothers Sujan and Pujan Sarkar bringing panache and purpose to the Marina. The allergen-friendly three-course tasting menus earn every penny of their $105 price point ($95 for vegetarian and vegan), though ordering a la carte is a great option. If splurging isn’t on the table, I prioritize the tandoori avocado, sporting big grill stripes atop a green chickpea hummus—an only-in-San Francisco, rare and inventive vegetable-friendly dish. Barman Izler Thomas’s cocktail menu is devoted to San Francisco’s neighborhoods; order the North Beach for a hit of sourdough and parmesan—it totally works—and the bar itself feels important thanks to Thomas. The vibe is deliberately a cut above the neighbors, with luxe green seats; a hostess will let you know if there’s room, and a private dining room is available. Best for something special—celebrate life, for god’s sake—because in the Marina there’s nowhere quite as cutting-edge nearby; show me another and I’ll eat my hat (read: another order of eggplant kofta)." - Paolo Bicchieri