"Efrain and Antonia Toledo’s backyard Oaxacan cenaduría is a fiesta of late-night antojitos from Valles Centrales, like quesadillas filled with cheese and fresh epazote, memelas, and tamales de mole. It’s worth the drive to Riverside for their fried-to-order molotes covered in black bean sauce, avocado sauce, and crumbled cheese, and stuffed with potatoes and Oaxacan chorizo, not to mention their traditional tlayudas, which come with pipicha, pápalo, and add-ons like roasted chile de agua — your choice of tasajo, cesina, or chorizo — that are folded and cooked over mesquite." - Bill Esparza