
6

"A recent San Gabriel Valley arrival led by owner Bughra Arkin, this restaurant spotlights Northwest China’s Muslim Uyghur cuisine and gestures toward current reports of repression back home. Signature items include a da pan ji — a heap of chicken with potatoes, chopped red and green peppers, slivers of garlic and ruddy dried chiles — and a straightforward stir-fried lamb freckled with cumin seeds. Equally addictive is a jumble of fried cubes of naan tossed with beef and cumin that produces the enveloping aroma in the dining room; the reviewer even prefers these to the kebabs. Manti dumplings and long laghman noodles are mostly wins, there are some enjoyable non-Uyghur dishes as well, and having opened only in January the place already reads as “a welcome new bright star” in the region’s constellation of cuisines." - Farley Elliott