"At a time when it seems like Los Angeles’s sushi scene has reached a high-water mark, a plucky omakase counter from sushi chef Nozomi Mori has shaken things up in a big way. Though Mori doesn’t necessarily have decades of experience, she brings a fresh approach to an industry dominated by men, both here in the U.S. and in Japan. Adopting traditional Japanese tea ceremony techniques, Mori’s refined take on sushi comes with a high level of skill, both with rice seasoning and fish preparation, where she prefers seasonal highlights like hairy crab and bluefin tuna from Tokyo’s Toyosu Market. The experience of eating some of the best sushi in Los Angeles is amplified by Mori and her all-female team’s precision. Meals end with matcha tea and handmade wagashi, or colorful rice flour and red bean confections, providing the ideal finish to memorable omakase. The $250 price for dinner hasn’t changed since opening and remains a relative bargain compared to other top-tier sushi restaurants in Los Angeles, which can approach $400-plus. — Matthew Kang, lead editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest" - Eater Staff, Rebecca Roland, Matthew Kang, Mona Holmes