"Chef Jesse Mulder’s gai tord Thai fried chicken has been a staple at Pumpui ever since he first opened this Little Italy counter-service spot where he flexes skills picked up from 20 years spent cooking in Thailand. With good reason: A rice flour crust gives the chicken a crunch you can hear from two tables over, and the oyster sauce and spice marinade seals the deal." - JP Karwacki