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"Eric Matthews, formerly of Chapter One, isn’t playing it safe at Kicky’s. Croquettes ooze Taleggio under a crust of spicy ’nduja. The cacio e pepe is silky, and the brill on the bone lands with Castletownbere shrimp and cockles, smoky from the grill. Desserts are worth the detour, especially the Irish Coffee, a tiramisu-style knockout with whiskey and coffee bean crunch. Must-try dish: The potato focaccia with carbonara butter, which is actual carbonara whipped into a spread, complete with crispy guanciale." - Corinna Hardgrave
