"When it opened in 2017, this shopping-center Sichuan restaurant blew New Yorkers away with its over-the-top decor in royal blue with gilded trim. Servers deliver pork ribs in a literal birdcage. There are Dongbei dishes as well as novelties on the menu, but one thing that has left a lasting impression is the mapo tofu, darkly sauced and firm of curd: It catapults into one’s mouth with fierce pungency." - Robert Sietsema