Winter 2023: The Best Dishes Eater San Francisco Editors Ate This Week - Eater SF
"The siren’s song of Dungeness crab has been luring me into an indecisive state, trying to figure out from restaurant menus where I’d like to have my first taste of crab this year. It’s a big decision — and one I haven’t quite figured out yet — but at a recent dinner at Yonsei Handrolls it seemed like a no-brainer to tide myself over, crab-wise, with this hand-sized piece of beauty: a Marin Dungeness hand roll with shoyu butter and garlic chives. It was everything a crab-liking person could want: the oceany sweetness, with the velvety addition of butter, and some bite from the chives and seaweed wrapping. I was distracted as soon as the roll landed on the table and, true to how goofy I can be, didn’t take a photo. Thankfully, my dining partner is much more diligent than I am at these things, and probably took a better photo than I ever could. As a secondary mention, the American wagyu roll, with mountain yam and a quail egg, also stood out. It wasn’t the easiest thing to bite into, but the flavors of the wagyu and quail egg together were outstanding and really emphasized that perhaps one doesn’t need to go the “traditional” route — and that chef Kyle Itani has really got a hit on his hands here." - Paolo Bicchieri
