Free Rein

A Critic Savors East Coast Seafood in Old Town - Eater Chicago

"Chef Aaron Lirette’s return at Free Rein is a mixed bag according to Michael Nagrant. Beef tartare is 'original, adorned with scallion kimchi and carrot dressing,' but foie gras torchon is 'overpowered' by a green curry. Halibut fares poorly as well, a 'dry bark adrift on trumpet mushrooms.' The meal recovers with 'one of the best pasta dishes [Nagrant’s] had this year, plump ricotta cavatelli tossed with blood sausage ragu, Asian pear, and black truffle.' Desserts are similarly up and down; marjolaine is a 'touch dry' and 'overwhelmed by the richness of hazelnut and ganache,' but a carrot layer cake is a 'satisfying antidote to the usual cream cheese-frosted spiced-crumb classic.' Overall, though there are some 'shortcomings in execution,' Nagrant still thinks the kitchen’s ideas and techniques are 'advanced and exciting.' [Michael Nagrant]" - Jeffy Mai