"It’s a build-your-own bún situation at Mỹ Lai, a burgeoning chain of fast-casual Vietnamese restaurants from Shad Davis and Traci Phan Davis. Rice vermicelli bowls can be topped with a choice of protein, including grilled chicken, beef, pork, or tofu. While a fish sauce vinaigrette is the most traditional, the tamarind vinaigrette makes for a tangy pick." - Cathy Chaplin, Matthew Kang