


10
"An energetic, slightly mad but often brilliant neighborhood kitchen that excels with fresh, seasonal produce and technically confident execution. Tamworth pork and prawn dumplings are a highlight, boasting wonderfully thin, springy casings; trout crudo is very well balanced; and turbot with onion and capers is beautifully done. A few dishes wobble — tagliatelle with crab, fennel and chilli can feel muddled and pumpkin with feta lacks a little pizzazz — but smart, clued-up service and a kitchen that largely does the right things make desserts like a miso caramel cookie skillet a fitting, knockout finish." - George Reynolds