"Hidden in Bangkok’s Chinatown, chef-owner Pichaya Soontornyanakij stages a 20-course tasting that reads like a love letter to her ancestors: each guest finds a personal letter to her grandparents beside their plate, and many dishes reference recipes and ingredients from the family’s five-generation herbal-medicine business housed in the timeworn building. The menu revisits street-food classics with fine-dining technique — an inventive take on rad na uses vinegar jelly with morels and caviar in place of straw mushrooms, an herbal crab broth evokes the aromas of Yaowarat’s spice shops, and entrées presented on a rotating tabletop include dry-aged duck, sweet beef char siu, and a Szechuan pepper–spiked kai toon layered with minced duck leg that jiggles like mapo tofu. Opened in 2021, the restaurant has won awards for its modern approach to ancestral Thai Chinese cuisine, and there’s a bar for a nightcap." - Chris Schalkx