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"Located at the busy intersection of Union and Metropolitan Avenues in Williamsburg, this long-lived diner is under new management after its previous owners filed for bankruptcy in 2023 and has been updated by chef Jackie Carnesi and pastry chef Amanda Perdomo. The menu balances reverent diner staples with a pronounced Tex‑Mex slant—poblano-studded meatloaf; two styles of queso (classic and cashew); “tall” and “flat” nachos with crisp-fried tortillas; and the return of chicken and waffles (fine waffle, better chicken). A branzino prepared in the style of a pescado divorciado is served head-on with separate verde and rojo salsas alongside tortillas, rice, guacamole, and pickled onions and chiles. Desserts nod to church‑cookbook and Southern traditions with a wiggly strawberry pretzel “salad” and a passion‑fruit‑Tajín icebox cake; the room keeps its classic layout with polished chrome and warmer, milkier light, a pop‑forward playlist and a celebrity-tinged opening crowd, long waits for reservations, and plans to add round‑the‑clock service—an effort to feel both timely and timeless while introducing younger patrons to things like the egg cream and the poblano." - Matthew Schneier