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"Founded in 2019 as a small vegan Sichuan outpost in the East Village, this plant-forward restaurant quickly gained attention for its dumplings and has expanded to the West Village (2020), the Bowery (2023), and Chelsea. It offers fresh, well-seasoned, spicy Sichuan dishes that often win over omnivores: mushroom-and-pressed-tofu wontons in chile oil; chopped-cheese spring rolls made with vegan beef, onions, peppers and vegan mozzarella; dan dan noodles in house chile oil, sweet soy and sesame paste topped with fermented vegetables; sautéed green beans with dry peppers; crispy Brussels sprouts drizzled with Sichuan peppercorn oil; steamed asparagus with a black-pepper sauce; and mains like General Tso–style seitan and a dry-pot stir-fry of mixed vegetables and tofu. A partner who is a rescue-pit-bull mom and Korean K9 Rescue board member positions the operation as an ethically minded alternative that elevates plant-based dining, and the bold, convincing flavors have been known to convert stubborn meat-eaters." - Mickey Boardman