Christina Tosi on Bake Club, Her New Cookbook, and Nashville

"Christina Tosi is standing in the basement of Milk Bar under at least four dozen disco balls, discussing the mechanics of pancake soft serve. “Pancake is such a study in like, soft and squishy — not in a bad way, in a good way,” she says. This is why she is thinking this soft serve should offer no crumb — “crumb” being Milk Bar parlance for crunchy, clumpy flavor crumbles — and is instead advocating that a “caramelized, brown-butter baked effect” should emanate directly from the ice cream, topped with a maple-syrup fluid gel, “not that we would ever use the words ‘fluid gel.’”" - Rachel Sugar