
1
"With the extra care of someone from a family of falafel-makers in Amman, I watched the owner compress each pita to fit more, then fold the foil like to-go origami; the falafel itself is a steaming little ball of lava with a solid crust and escaping steam, served with impeccably fresh fattoush that seems tumbled from the greengrocer and neon-green pickled peppers arranged in thin arabesques." - Joshua David Stein