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"Like Peter Pan, Mike’s is up at 4 a.m. and buzzing by 5; I grab a stool at the malt-shop counter and admire the staggeringly large sourdough crullers, immaculately frosted ring doughnuts, shaggy coconut-coated varieties, behemoth marble sticks, and vast bins of delightful, inexpensive doughnut holes." - Hugh Merwin