San Wei Sells the Most Surprising Pastrami in NYC

"Located in a suburban mall food court at Queens Center in Elmhurst, this independently owned stall pairs an unexpected pastrami-focused offering with hand-pulled noodles and other dishes. The pastrami on rye is thickly sliced with a dark bark, a salty, peppery kick, and spicy brown mustard; it’s substantial and leaner than classic Katz’s-style pastrami (sourced from a third party rather than made in-house), and one reviewer compared it favorably to what’s served at the Mets’ stadium. The thick, flat hand-pulled noodles come tangled with egg and fatty pork in a numbing tomato broth, while the thin Chongqing-style noodles are spicy and peppery with a slick of red oil—both bowls earned praise. The pastrami bao—cubed meat in steamed buns with mustard and chile crisp—was singled out as outstanding, offering a zingy, balanced bite that’s less commitment than a full sandwich. The owner, who chats with customers while working the line and pulls noodles himself, says he doesn’t consider the operation strictly Chinese and is already developing additions like churros and a shrimp Alfredo." - Tammie Teclemariam