"Moono, a new Korean restaurant in a beautiful Gothic Revival house, is making a stronger case for it than I would have imagined possible. Using a technique borrowed from his grandmother, chef Hoyoung Kim cleans and brines his fish before aging it three to five days. Brushed with yujang (a combination of soy and sesame oil) and grilled, it’s served bare on the plate, but the results are magic. The flesh is tender and pleasingly oily under a flaking sheaf of crisp skin." - The Editors