"The Pink City’s original boutique hotel, Samode Haveli still charms guests from around the world. Through constant improvements it has managed to steer off competition popping up on every corner. This 200-year-old gem, the townhouse of the royal family of Samode, is one of Jaipur’s more spectacular examples of a haveli (mansion). Home to some fabulous frescoes and murals, and blessed with a leafy garden, it's difficult to believe that from this sanctuary you can stroll out into the bustling streets of the city. The 50 rooms and suites are scattered between what would have been the mardana (men's area) and zenana (women's area). A rabbit’s warren of winding passageways, it’s easy to get lost within Samode’s impressive interiors. The whole place exudes romance, and the gentle and caring staff do their utmost to look after your every whim. Best of all, the hotel doesn't allow groups so a sense of peace prevails. Afternoon tea on the sun-dappled courtyard or lounging on a daybed overlooking the exceptionally pretty pool are idyllic ways to relax after a morning's sightseeing. Great food and a relaxed ambience only add to the charm of this classic hotel. Highs The gorgeous pool is one of the largest and prettiest in Jaipur, with an excellent pool bar The lovely gardens have burbling fountains and ornate terraces where dinners are served by candlelight in the warmer months The feel throughout is one of delightful faded grandeur, with many alcoves for lounging around No large groups are accepted in order to maintain the serenity We revisited in 2018 and felt this was still one of the best heritage hotels in town thanks to massive investment and refurbishment Lows You can hear city noise at night (though it's only really noticeable in the garden) The courtyard Deluxe Rooms sometimes feel close to the bustle of the communal areas Think unique and charming rather than top-notch luxury; service can occasionally be a little slow It's often busy, especially during high season, so make sure you book well in advance" - Meg Lambert