Another low-lit wine bar with good food? Yes, but Sam's Place is special - Review - Los Angeles - The Infatuation
"Stop us if you’ve heard this one before. A wine bar, with good food, somewhere in Northeast LA. We know. Same. But we’ll keep going, because a) this is our corner of the internet and b) there’s a straightforward confidence to Sam’s Place that’s kind of intoxicating. On its face, there’s not anything particularly special happening at this mellow wine bar and restaurant in Highland Park. There’s a list of natural wines, a few beers, accompanied by a short food menu you could order all at once, and a drop-in-and-chat feel. But when was the last time cornichon butter was served with your charcuterie, or your empty wine glass was topped up for free because your friend “still has a bit to go”? Or, for that matter, paid $32 for a steak? photo credit: Jessie Clapp photo credit: Jessie Clapp photo credit: Jessie Clapp photo credit: Jessie Clapp photo credit: Jessie Clapp Pause Unmute All of this takes place in a low-lit room resembling the 1970s basement all cool dads wish they could preside over. The wood-paneled walls, flannel curtains, candlelight, and soundtrack provided by cassette tapes could come off twee and trying too hard in the wrong hands. Somehow it clicks together unpretentiously at Sam’s. This may have something to do with their lack of internet presence—no website, no social media—and flickery candle lighting that makes it impossible to “create content” without being a menace. Mostly, it’s clear from the moment you walk in that the people behind Sam’s Place are doing things the way they want, and that’s why it works. The wine list is small and natural because that’s how they like it. The food is fantastic—way better than it needs to be at a neighborhood wine bar—because they want you to stick around and hang out. We went once and can’t stop going back. If you’re lucky, Sam’s Place will become your place, too. Food Rundown Vermouth Spritz The wine list here is short and thoughtful with no bottles over $100, and the owner/bartender will happily help you find what you’re looking for. However, you should start with their vermouth spritz, made with bubbly Spanish mineral water and a nice contrast to the sweeter Aperol spritz—bitter, yet refreshing. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Rosette Plate Sorry to repeat ourselves but did you know that cornichon butter is a real thing and that it is perfect? This cured meat plate also features hot-to-the-touch grilled bread and soft saucisson, but it’s the vinegary butter that makes us giddy. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Herb Salad It’s salads like this that convince us we shouldn’t even try replicating restaurant salads at home. Sure, we could figure out the leaves and herbs, plus the savory nubs of cheddar. But we wouldn’t come close to the heights of the tart vinaigrette and sweet, nutty bits of sesame-hazelnut crunch. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Japanese Sweet Potato Extremely charred, slightly spicy, extremely good. If you’re still missing the sweet potatoes from the dearly departed Mh Zh—topped with tahini and a bright green chile paste—these are almost an exact copy. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Chicken Wings The one dish on the menu that didn’t blow us away. These grilled wings are seasoned with warm spices and glazed with pomegranate molasses, but aren’t especially crispy. But if you’re in the “always order the wings” camp, you’ll likely be satisfied. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Bar Steak We’re all tired of talking about inflation, but when was the last time you saw a $32 steak at a restaurant? If recently, was it actually good? Because this 10-ounce bavette is simple and fantastic. They won’t ask how you want it cooked, but it’ll show up 20 minutes later neatly cut into rare slices soaking in red wine jus with crisp watercress on the side. photo credit: Jessie Clapp" - Jess Basser Sanders
