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"While most of the pitmasters in Texas battle over who makes the jiggliest brisket, Leroy and Lewis turns underdog cuts into headline acts. Towering beef ribs share the stage with chuck roast that’s as beefy and tender as any steak, and even vegetables like miso-glazed carrots have been slow-smoked to bring out their hidden sweetness instead of tossed on the menu purely for a pop of color. This is a place that lists “sliced beef” on the menu without sounding like a Luby’s-inspired pop-up. Beef cheeks are smoked and confited until they fall apart at the sight of a fork, and nothing feels fussy for the sake of it. But because this is Texas, brisket still makes an inevitable appearance—and it’s nearly perfect. It just happens to be part of an elite lineup that proves Texas barbecue isn’t defined by a single cut." - nicolai mccrary, kevin gray, nick rallo