Inman's Kevin Rathbun does steakhouse standards well - Review - Atlanta - The Infatuation
"Kevin Rathbun in Inman Park meets all the requirements for a proper steakhouse. The dimly lit dining room reels you in with white tablecloths and real candles on the tabletops. There’s a lot of wood paneling and exposed brick, and a more casual bar, where you can watch a game while taking down a porterhouse. And, of course, the menu is packed with steaks whose prices can soar into the triple digits. Those qualities alone draw crowds of couples looking for a fancy-ish night out and groups of polo-shirted men who definitely belong to a country club. And we get the appeal, especially since Rathbun has been consistent for decades. Dry-aged steaks are dependable and come with a generous amount of what they call “steak accompaniments,” which are really just various forms of butter. Nothing is particularly outside the box or above and beyond. While we do love drowning a 10-ounce ribeye in so much roasted garlic butter that we can hear our arteries crying, the food at Kevin Rathbun Steak is pretty standard for a steakhouse. Sides range from good (creamy, shelled macaroni and cheese) to better (charred brussels sprouts with a sweet chili butter). Everything is decent enough to make this just-off-the-Beltline spot part of your regular steak rotation, but if you want a blowout meal, we have some other ideas, too. Food Rundown Lobster Fritters These are essentially chicken nuggets made of lobster. There’s a drizzle of lemony honey mustard, but we wish the dish came with a little cup of the sauce to fully dunk the four bite-size pieces into. Thick-Cut Bacon Your server will likely advise you to try these, and you should listen. It’s basically five small pieces of pork belly with a slightly crispy exterior. They’re both sweet and BBQ-y, and make for a nice, non-beef appetizer. PlayMute video credit: Juli Horsford Filet Mignon You can opt for a six-ounce or 12-ounce of this cut of steak. If you’re a purist and don’t want to add anything additional to your meat, this is the best option. PlayMute video credit: Juli Horsford Ribeye This comes in 10- or 20-ounce portions. It’s a little chewier than the filet and benefits from a hefty pour of whatever sauce you prefer (the roasted garlic butter is a safe choice). Seared Scallops Four scallops with a gentle sear sit on a pile of buttery succotash. They’re meaty and slice with more grace than a prima ballerina. This dish (at $50) proves Rathbun can do more than just steaks. photo credit: Juli Horsford" - Juli Horsford
