Ronan Review - Fairfax - Los Angeles - The Infatuation
"At first glance, Ronan looks like an average neighborhood pizzeria with a nice patio. There are comfortable booths and a communal table inside, but nothing about the space is remarkable. But then the burrata appetizer and the anchovy-draped caesar salad hit your table. Followed by perfect, bubbly-crusted Neapolitan pizza dropped off by a tatted server wearing a Dookie Tour T-shirt. And suddenly, it clicks. What makes this Italian spot on Melrose just outside West Hollywood stand out is how easy the meals feel, thanks to consistently great food, friendly service, and a casual space that’s always easy to get into. photo credit: Jakob Layman Ronan is a pizzeria first, but we’ve used this slightly hidden spot (walk into the parking lot, the host stand will be to your right) for all sorts of things. We’ve had killer first dates on the candlelit patio, sangiovese-fueled friend dinners at the wooden communal table, and last-minute pizza parties with family on the weekends. Speaking of pizza parties, order a few margherita pies or the honey-drizzled Sweet Cheeks directly to your door and you’ll be the hero of whatever awards show get-together you’re hosting. With pies this good, a few minutes in the back of a Kia won’t tank the quality. The non-pizza section of the menu—a dozen or so small plates that involve wood-roasted vegetables, spicy clams, meatballs, and the like—are solid additions to a meal here, even if they don't always reach the heights of the plump, nicely charred pizzas. Ronan is a neighborhood restaurant good enough to leave your own neighborhood to experience. And that’s what we call a Big Deal Restaurant—except here, you don’t need to put on fancy clothes, make reservations a month in advance, or check your bank account afterward with one eye open. And perhaps that makes it an even bigger deal. Food Rundown photo credit: Jakob Layman Burrata Genovese LA’s burrata craze has thankfully subsided, but we still order this dish every time we’re at Ronan. It comes to the table in a bath of basil oil and topped with a healthy handful of pine nuts for bite. It’s simple, well-balanced, and great smeared on some focaccia. photo credit: Brant Cox Wood-Fired Foccacia No matter whether you’re getting the burrata, make sure this dense, crunchy focaccia hits the table. It arrives as a square-shaped loaf about three inches tall with a knife stuck in the center like it’s a prized pork chop. Plan to use it as a Zamboni for every plate on the table. photo credit: Brant Cox Caesar If you like caesars heavy on the anchovies, you’re going to love the one here. It’s the reason we love it so much, too. photo credit: Jakob Layman Margherita Just like every professional dancer starts in a beginner ballet class, you need to start with the margherita. It’s the baseline for every other pizza at Ronan, and it’s also delicious. No pointe shoes required. photo credit: Jakob Layman Sweet Cheeks Along with the electric wine bottle opener, honey drizzled on pizza is one of the greatest inventions of our time. When combined with ricotta and spicy guanciale like it is here, we’ll double down on that statement. Cocktails & Wine Ronan has a good cocktail and wine list, but what makes drinking here so exciting are the collaborations with out-of-town sommeliers, whiskey distilleries, and guest bartenders. Keep an eye on their Instagram—they happen frequently." - Brant Cox
